Auto-Hydrogen 60a PWM installation

This guide was updated 15-07-2012 to be comprehensive.

* FIND A LOCATION TO FIT THE PWM AS CLOSE TO THE CAR BATTERY AS POSSIBLE

PWM-Wiring-Diagram-2

1. KEY SWITCH / IGNITION IN:

  1. Single wire + positive (1.5 mm²) should be connected to terminal (1) from ignition source. This is the correct method of connecting the board for long term/every day use.
  2. For short term use or testing the "ignition in" wire is not needed. The PWM will detect automatically when the car engine is switched ON or OFF. This is however an extra safety feature.
*Ignition source = Check engine light (the best source we've found). There are other sources.
*HHO system must only work when engine is running.
**THIS IS CALLED HHO ON DEMAND.
***It must not work when the key is turned to ignition but the engine is off.

 

2. GROUND IN WIRE:

  1. Single wire (1.5 mm²) to terminal (2) and the other end fastened to chassis.
  2. Fastening the aluminum enclosure to the vehicles chassis.

*Either will do the job but we recommend doing both.

3. LIQUID CRISTAL DISPLAY IN:

  • LCD is connected to these 2 pins, terminals (3&4), there is no polarity.

 case 83 17 no probes crop

4. PROBES - FLUID LEVEL SENSOR:

Set of four Stainless steel probes should be connected to this connector terminal (pins 5,6,7 & 8) in order for the Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) to show fluid levels and for the automatic refill pump to work. This is also needed for automatic/emergency shutdown to work, when the electrolyte tank is empty or over full.

 

pins 5 and 7 no probes bridge

  • Connect from left to right BLACK/RED/WHITE/YELLOW wires. Check wiring diagram.
  • The white wire in the diagram is sometimes green depending on the type of cables available to us at the time.
  • If you do not use the probe the PWM will give a wrong indication of fluid levels and will not work. However...
  • If you don't want to use the probe you will have to use a short jumper wire from black to white (pins 5&7) so the PWM thinks there is fluid in the tank and subsequently it will work.

 

5. AUTO REFIL PUMP IN:

This is to connect a Tank with a pump (similar to windshield washer Tanks). Its purpose is to automatically refill your "Electrolyte tank" with distilled water. The tank with pump should be connected to this connector, (+) Pos left and (-) Neg right. This is PWM controlled also and supports Max 12V - 1.5 Amp pump without cooling of the Power Mosfet.

CAUTION: BE CAREFUL NOT TO REVERSE POLARITY

*Non return valve (check Valve) must be used between refill tank and electrolyte tank so that electrolyte is not siphoned back into refill tank from the electrolyte tank.

 

6. CIRCULATING PUMP IN:

This is to connect a Circulating pump. Its purpose is to keep your HHO cell full of electrolyte at all times increasing gas output and helping it run cooler. Eliminates the need to install the tank 30cm above the height of HHO Cell. (Useful when you don't have much room in the engine bay) The pump should be connected to this connector, (+) Pos to the left and (-) Neg to the right as shown in diagram. This is PWM controlled also and supports Max 12V - 1.5 Amp pump without cooling of the Power Mosfet.

CAUTION: BE CAREFUL NOT TO REVERSE POLARITY

*When installing the circulating pump please make sure that it is placed lower than the electrolyte tank. The pumps we use are not self priming. The advantage of this type of pump is that they do not restrict fluid flow if they are turned off or break down.

 

7. POWER OUT 12-14.5V, ==>TO HHO CELL:

Connect your HHO Cell Positive ( + ) to this terminal using HEAVY DUTY WIRE (10 mm²).

*If you're using over 25 amps double up on the wires! Use the extra connector!

MAKE SURE YOUR CONNECTIONS ARE TIGHT AND TRY TO KEEP YOUR WIRES AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE. (10 mm² HEAVY DUTY WIRE WILL HANDLE AT LEAST 50 AMPS @ 12V OVER A SHORT DISTANCE).

Use a proper crimping tool for size of wire and type connector.

  1. The PWM only supplies Positive ( + ) Power to the HHO Cell.
  2. Negative ( - ) Power to the HHO Cell is achieved by:
  • Grounding Negative terminals from the HHO Cell to the car chassis or
  • Running cables from Negative terminals on the HHO Cell to the vehicles Battery.

 

female-spade-connectorscrimp

These on the left are good. Make sure they are the ones for 6mm wire, the ears at the back are slightly larger and they are the biggest available. Squeeze them gently with pliers at the front if they don't seem tight when you slide them on to the male connector

These on the right are no good do not use them. They will give you trouble.

 

 

FSD-156B-hand-crimping-tool1

VTCT1

 

These on the left are good and make a great, tight connection.

These on the right are no good and make a poor connection that will give you trouble.

 

 

8. 12-14.5V POWER IN, <==FROM CAR BATTERY:

Connect your BATTERY terminal Pos ( + ) to this terminal using HEAVY DUTY WIRE (10 mm²).

*If you're using over 25 amps double up on the wires! Use the extra connector!

MAKE SURE YOUR CONNECTION IS TIGHT AND TRY TO KEEP YOUR WIRES AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE. (10 mm² HEAVY DUTY WIRE WILL HANDLE AT LEAST 50 AMPS @ 12V OVER A SHORT DISTANCE).

Use a proper crimping tool for size of wire and type connector.


CAUTION: YOU MUST INSTALL A CIRCUIT BREAKER OR FUSE BETWEEN PWM AND THE CAR BATTERY. PLACE IT AS CLOSE TO BATTERY AS POSSIBLE.

30amp-circuit-breaker-2fuse-30amp-1

 

These on the left are very good. Select the right rating for your HHO Cell.

 These on the right are ok but sometimes tend to melt or break.

 

 

# The Enclosures we use with our PWM PCB, are made of thick aluminum and act as a heat sink to cool the POWER MOSFETS. It also grounds the board automatically to the chassis, but it is a good idea to ground, through the ground connection (2) on the board as well. So far we have not seen the need for a fan to be installed but it can be if needed.

# DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS!

IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE YOU MAY BURN OUT THE PWM BOARD

 

Things you should know about your alternator:

  • Alternators have a maximum rating anything from 35 amps to 200+ amps.
  • This is the maximum amps your alternator can give you.
  • It means it can give you those maximum amps momentarily at about 3500 RPM.
  • Continuously it can give you at least half those amps without suffering any damage.
  • If you draw more than half the maximum rating you will eventually burn out the regulator on the alternator and perhaps the alternator itself.
  • Commonsense says, that a 200amp alternator could give you 60%+ continuously.
  • Whereas a 35 amp alternator even 40% continuously could be a strain on it.

Knowing all of this... it is not wise purchasing a HHO system that runs at 60amps when your 1964 model VW beetle has a 35amp alternator. Balance is the key to success with HHO.

 

The Theory, auto-hydrogen's PWM, working principle.

  1. Most car alternators put out 14 to 14.4 volts and this is controlled by the alternators regulator.
  2. The PWM is designed to protect your alternator and your battery.
  3. It does this by dropping back the amperage automatically when the car puts out lower volts.
  4. Most cars while idling and under the added strain of a HHO generator, air-condition, headlights or any other current drawing appliances fitted to your car, will put out less volts and amps.

 When your car gives you 13.8Volts, the PWM will cut back the amperage to the HHO cell, 10% for every 0.1volts under that.

  1. 13.8V or more FULL amps
  2. 13.7V 10% less amps
  3. 13.6V 20% less amps
  4. 13.5V 30% less amps
  5. 13.4V 40% less amps
  6. 13.3V 50% less amps
  7. 13.2V 60% less amps
  8. 13.1V 70% less amps
  9. 13.0V 80% less amps
  10. 12.9V 90% less amps
  11. 12.8V 100% less amps which effectively means auto shut down of HHO system.

 

Thermal runaway

The PWM will protect your HHO Cell from "Thermal Runaway" by keeping the amps of your HHO Cell at the figure you have PRESET. It will not pass that amount no matter how many amps are requested by your HHO Cell while it heats up. Make sure your preset figure is within the bounds of the HHO Cells Rating or you will burn out the HHO Cell.

The PWM effectively stops the vicious cycle of Thermal Runaway in its tracks.

 

Liquid Crystal Display functions

HHO-CELL-PWM-IN-CAR-DIGITAL-DISPLAY

 

1. Pressing the on off button far left turns on or off the PWM and HHO system

2. Using the arrows left/right adjusts the brightness of the display.

3. Press OK button changes to maximum amperage adjustment menu. Use the arrows left/right to set the maximum amps you want HHO cell to draw. Then press the OK button once more to return to the display screen.

4. The two pump icons:

  1. The one on the left rotates when the circulating pump is working.
  2. The one on the right rotates when the auto refill pump works (momentarily).

5. Duty Cycle %:

  1. This shows how much current is being stopped by the PWM as a percentage.
  2. 95% very little or no current is being pulsed or stopped.
  3. 5% most of the current is being stopped

6. Fluid level indicator shows the levels in your electrolyte tank,

  1. 3 Bars = overfull, Have a look and make sure there is enough room for HHO gas at the top off the tank. If not remove some liquid with a syringe. Check that electrolyte doesn't spill over to bubbler.
  2. 2 Bars = full, this is the correct indication and should show most of the time.
  3. 1 Bar = low, auto refill pump comes on automatically to add distilled water from reserve tank.
  4. No Bars = empty. You should not let this happen. Add water before this happens.

EMPTY means, auto shutdown of your HHO system and PWM to protect it from damage / burnout.

 

Troubleshooting

PWM will not switch on:-

  • Check your fuse or circuit breaker from car battery.
  • If not using fluid level sensor check that you have bridged pins (5 & 7) see diagram in section 4.
  • If you are using fluid level sensor check that electrolyte is at the correct levels. Too low means auto shut down of HHO system.

PWM shows less than 13.8Volts while driving:-

  • See an auto electrician, your regulator may be malfunctioning.
  • Your alternator is too small for the size HHO cell you are running.

There are volts but no amps:-

  • Check hoses for blockages or kinks.
  • Electrolyte is not getting to your cell make sure you can see electrolyte in the HHO Cell.

Amps too low:-

  • You may need a higher concentration of electrolyte.
  • You may have set the amperage too low from the display.

Wires from battery to PWM or from PWM to HHO Cell are hot to the touch:-

  • Use thicker wire or double up using the other connectors as well.
  • Doubling wires is good idea in any case.