Buyers guide for energy savers

 

All the info a person needs to know to make an informed decision

scratch headWith the surge in gas prices, came a surge of people and "companies" selling hydrogen boost generators, systems and devices to increase your fuel economy. The amount of sellers gets bigger with every day. This alone puts up a warning flag.

Included is a brief on the Performance chips, Air Razors, Turbonators, Throttle body spacers, and other "bolt on performance and fuel economy"

This message is for all looking to purchase something of the matter.

Most all of these sellers on eBay and elsewhere on the net state that they have been researching for years and that it is now available to the public. Most all of them say their technology is patent pending and that their system is better than others. Most all of them claim huge "up to" increases in fuel savings.

I have decided to try to evade people from throwing away their hard earned cash.

First the Hydrogen deal:

Let's get the facts straight. Water is H2O aka - 2parts Hydrogen, 1part Oxygen combined together. When put under electrolysis these molecules split forming a gas known as HHO which is a very explosive and powerful gas. The smallest of sparks can ignite the gas and if stored into a container which for some reason caught fire, the result could be fatal. No need to get scared though, if the proper precautions are made, no danger is to be seen.

2000px-h2o 2d labelled svg

HHO is about 3 times more powerful than gasoline vapor. Meaning 1L of HHO would give your vehicle 300% more power than 1L of gasoline vapor. But feeding an engine pure HHO would destroy it due to the fact timing is advanced (spark before TDC) on most vehicles but needs to be retarded (spark after TDC). Also the temperature at which HHO Burns is melting point of the metal it touches. SO...your valves and head would burn through in a matter of weeks. Also in diesel engines if you completely remove diesel from an engine the upper cylinder gets no lubrication and will wear out your piston rings FAST.

4-Stroke-EngineGetting enough HHO to power a car is pretty hard if not impossible. Explanation: a 2 cylinder 1L engine uses 1L of air per 4 revolutions (rpm). Gasoline is injected as a mist which turns into a vapor instantly at a ratio of 15 parts air to one part vapor. Which is .07L, At 2000 RMP the engine uses 1/2L of vapor per SECOND. HHO is already one part oxygen to two parts hydrogen so too much air would thin it out too much and give no explosion. SO, even at a ratio of 10:1 that would require .85 L per second of HHO to power that same engine at 2000RPM. Kind of a lot. NO HHO generator I have seen or made can come close to the requirements.

So we use HHO to BOOST the efficiency of our gasoline engine, giving it pure hydrogen and oxygen to let the fuel burn better. This is where the good part starts.

Most sellers are selling systems that give less than 1/2 LPM of HHO. When mixed with the air going to the engine that makes NOTHING. 1/10-1/2 LPM of HHO will do some good for a small engine like 50CC-2.0L again more HHO to the bigger engine. Any engine over this size needs 1+ LPM. A lot of the sellers don't even know how much their system makes! They say "ALOT" but in reality all the cells I have tested that seemed to make a lot, made 1/4-3/4 LPM. If the kit supplies gas via an aquarium air line, the system makes nothing, trust me.

float-oxygen-and-air-flow-meter-plug-in-type-424973LOOK OUT FOR THE GAS OUTPUT.

I recommend .5-1.0LPM HHO per Litre of engine displacement.

Example: 2.0L vehicle should have a 1-2LPM generator for good increase in economy.

Second, if a system uses a lot of AMPS, it will fry your alternator and battery in no time which no one will tell you though. Look out for systems that draw over 15AMPs but put out less than 1LPM. This is not a wise investment. A full size truck can handle 25 AMPS but I don't recommend going over 20. Again, putting 20Amps on a 1.8L car will make the alternator, which is usually 85AMPs, run at a high load and burn out.

Use a good PWM (pulse width modulator)

MORE EXPENSIVE DOESNT MEAN GOOD!

Upon testing, I find that without proper circulation of air around a unit (which is impossible under the hood of the car where it is already HOT) the unit boils over in a matter of minutes. So it starts drawing more amps, if you start at 10 you will get above 20 at boil. NOT GOOD.

Any system made out of PVC(white) plumbing pipe that draws over 15 amps is likely to boil. That pipe is not made to withstand that kind of temperature. It turns soft and flexible at that temp. It will warp, deform and likely leak in short time if there is any connections below the water line. Watch out for these types of systems.

100ohm resistorThe biggest concern is that most none of the sellers tell anyone that if you own a EFI (fuel injected) car which most people do, that you will need either an EFIE on your Oxygen sensor, or a resistor on your MAP or MAF sensor. These are fairly easy to build and install but it is a MUST and you will not see much difference in fuel savings without one, you even might see a loss of economy. It is used to trick the computer into thinking that the fuel mix is richer than it is. You want LEAN mix if you are running HHO boost. But too much oxygen in the exhaust will tell the computer to add more fuel which would cancel any HHO boost. Moving the Oxygen sensor out of the pipe but still mounted on the pipe will work on some vehicles (1996o or older). BE WARNED: too lean of a fuel mix WILL burn your valve seats and valve heads! Diesel cars do not suffer from this.

The Performance economy chip SCAM:

Performance Chip

Alot of sellers selling these "performance chips" many have closed doors and opened new ones due to bad feedback.

Stay away from the "performance chips" as MOST are only a resistor, usually 33K OHM (5pack at RadioShack for $1) that goes on your air intake temperature sensor and give the car a little boost. Whether $40 or $.99 on eBay, they are the same and don't do anything for gas mileage as the sellers state. The shipping is outrageous too.

turbonator

The AirRazor or Turbonator

or anything of the sort will not do anything for fuel economy as they restrict the air flow to the engine. Especially at high RPM. They state it makes a Vortex and mixes the air and fuel better to let it burn but what really happens is it makes Turbulence which slows down airflow which is exactly opposite of what we want. Chrome the inside of your intake manifold and install a smooth intake if you want performance with economy.

fuel magnetFuel magnets

do not work on gasoline cars as I have tested several different vehicles. They do help diesel engines. Several people for whom I have installed my magnets, say increases of 5-20% in economy. Stay away from Fuel Master (cheap ceramic magnets).

Fuel heaters

FuelPreHeater 2do not do anything for fuel injected gasoline cars as the gasoline is already heated hot enough. They do work wonders on diesel as the fuel always returns to the tank and cools again never getting a chance to heat up hot enough for proper combustion.

Throttle body spacers

throttle body spacer Helix Swirldont do anything for a vehicle unless it is in full throttle position which is obviously not the point of saving gas. I have heard from two people that the AirRaid spacer increases economy 2.5-4 MPG on Chevy trucks.

 

Most economy devices only do good for the sellers and their fat wallets.

spark plugs leads and air filterA good investment

is a nice set of sparkplugs every 75K(Bosch 2 or 4, Iridium, e3), a new set of ignition wires every 50-75K miles, a new fuel filter, a high flow air filter (K&N, AirRaid, Fujita will last longer than your car) don't go for the China "cold air intake filter" Cheap foam will let ALOT of dust through.

Proper inflation

of tires is a must. You can lose 10% for every 5PSI your tires are under-inflated. Extra junk has to go. 50kgs will drop you 10% on a smaller car.

I put up all the info a person needs to know to make an informed decision on where to put their hard earned money. Best off, use your common sense, if a system costs $1500, you won't pay it off in savings before you get rid of the car probably.

tyre-pressures

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